We have been cycling north from Tirana in Albania for the last 32 days. We have come up through the Western Balkans following the Trans Dinarica route. Now we have turned west through the Julian Alps, the Dolomites and the Austrian Tyrol.
The map of our route is below. If you are viewing this in the email link you cannot see maps or videos so you need to click “Read on Blog” at the top right of the email.
Saturday 6th June 2026
Tolmin, Slovenia to Tolmezzo, Italy
Climb 1907 m, Distance 77.3 km
It was about 8.20 by the time we had finished a delicious breakfast and managed to get our bikes up the steep ramp from the basement. Bernie had found a route that followed one of the many cycle routes out of Tolmin. This took us on small, low traffic roads along the valley through pretty villages and was fairly easy to start. Luckily, just before the big climb started we found a slightly larger village with a shop so we were able to recharge with jam donuts and sodas.
The climb was initially a steady 7% which was nice, the sort of gradient we can cycle for a long time. Being a Saturday, and a sweeping, winding road there were lots of motorbikes groups roaring around. We were in the main part of the Julian Alps and the peaks were stunning, rising high above us. We were cycling up the Soca Gorge and could hear the Soca River and it’s tributaries tumbling down into it, far below.
After a false summit and 100 m drop we climbed up through the now unmanned Italian border and into a National Park. We were surrounded by forest and flowering verges.
We turned off onto a much smaller road leaving almost all the cars behind as we continued the climb to the pass. A few motorbikes did come up but moving slowly and using their horns on each blind bend. It was very pretty but hard work and we were hoping that the restaurant we could see near the top was open.
It was not only open but seething with motorbikers, roadies and cycle tourists, mainly on ebikes. We had a bowl of tagliatelle with venison, apel strudel and chocolate and nut tart and coffee. Just what was needed.
The fast and furious descent was super steep and long and we were thankful we didn’t come up that way. We were very lucky that it was overcast and 19 C all morning while we were climbing as it was over 30 C all afternoon.
We had planned on an off-road stretch along the river but they were rebuilding the bridge. So we joined one of their well designed cycle paths on an old railway that took us through lots of long, cold tunnels under the hills to Tolmezzo. We are staying in a hotel on the outskirts. Very tired when we arrived after climbing 1907 m.
Sunday, 7th June 2026
Tolmezzo to Padola over a pass at Sappada ski resort
Climb 1795 Distance 75.3 km
It was another big day, but at least we stopped halfway up the second climb before we got to the steep bit.
It started off easily enough on cycle trails out of town, the FGV6 then FGV8/a. For about 10 km we almost imperceptibly climbed at about 2%. The best type of climbing. But unfortunately the small trail we had hoped to turn onto was closed so we were on the main road for a bit. One of the advantages of this is it does keep the gradients low.
We had stunning scenery from the start that just got better as the day progressed. We are now in the Dolomites with tall, sharp and jagged peaks of bare limestone rock above the tree line.
Of course our easy day rolling through pretty alpine villages couldn’t last as we had a pass to get over. Just after we passed the Winter Olympic 2026 site for the Biathlon our road went straight up at 15% with no corners to hide what was coming. Halfway up I thought it was raining but it was the sweat pouring off my face. We had a reprieve for the last bit into the ski resort of Sappada when the gradient dropped to an easy 11%! Then, to celebrate reaching the top of the first hill at lunchtime in a town with no open restaurants it started to rain. After struggling into waterproofs we eventually found a place that not only said it was open but actually was. They take their Sundays seriously here.
Emerging a well fed time later the sun was back and we charged downhill for 10 km past lots of pink ribbons and pink plastic flowers. The Women’s Giro Italia had been through here on Wednesday somewhat faster than us. Shame we missed it.
We had another climb, halfway up to the next pass before stopping. Thankfully we did the easy bit of the climb leaving the really the steep bit for later. I think we will take a day off tomorrow as there are lots of walking routes up here, well ski runs in fact.
Monday 8th June 2026
Padola Day off Walking
Had a lazy day today. We went for a walk along some of the ski runs and took probably too many pictures of flowers. Sorry if flowers and bugs are not your thing!
Tuesday 9th June 2026
Padola to Bruneck – Brunico
Climb 704 m Distance 62.7 km
It had rained heavily overnight and we were expecting the same all day. But miraculously it cleared up and the sun came out before we left. We were also expecting a hard climb up to 1636 m at the Passo Monte Croce as we had originally plotted a route on small lanes, but sticking to the main road, that wasn’t busy this early, we had nice easy gradients all the way up.
There were hundreds of hikers all getting ready to set off as we went over the pass and roared down the other side. It was fairly steep down at first but it soon leveled off a bit and the scenery changed. Gone were the dramatic limestone dolomites peaks. Everything on this side was green and rolling. We were now in South Tyrol and noticed the change when we stopped in a cafe and the waitresses spoke to us in German even though we were still in Italy.
We had noticed that for the last few days all the towns have two names, their Italian name and their Ladin name. Ladin is the ancient indigenous language here and is slightly different in every valley.
From here onwards we were on cycle trails and they were really busy with heavily loaded ebikes, and day trip ebikes. They would suddenly pass without a word so you had to stay alert. Only very occasionally would we see a manual bike. Later we realised we were on the main biking route from Munich to Venice. This is also why we are finding it so hard to find accommodation. Unfortunately we will be sharing a route nearly to Innsbruck.
We are staying in a pedestrianised old street in the centre of Bruneck. It is full of old houses and we have the castle right up behind us. We walked up the steep hill to see the castle but couldn’t get in, so just saw the strong walls.
There is thunder rolling around now which doesn’t look good for tomorrow.
Wednesday, 10th June, 2026
Bruneck – Brunico to Sterzing – Vipiteno
Climb 648 m Distance 58.9 km
It had rained heavily all night with some thunder and it was still raining heavily as we left. We had nipped out to a bakery across the street first thing for some delicious morsels for breakfast.
When we had arrived yesterday the river outside the city gate was totally clear and slow running. This morning it was a chocolate brown raging torrent. Further downstream it had burst its banks and filled the flood plain. Luckily around here, unlike in England, they don’t build houses in flood plains.
Although it was wet it was a pleasant cycle at first down all the cycle paths that were more or less car free. There was almost no wind at all and it was a little chilly at 13 C. There were only a few hardy long distance cyclists on the trails on manual bikes, the overloaded ebikers seem to have taken the day off. We stopped at Mülbach – Rio di Pusteria to warm up and dry off but the owner took one look at us and asked for all wet outer garments to be removed first, which left me shivering in shorts and T-shirt. I usually overheat if I wear too much under waterproofs.
When we left the temperature had dropped 5 degrees to 8 C, it was raining harder and a strong headwind had got up. Within minutes we were freezing so we stopped under a bridge, put on more clothes and struggled into padded winter gloves, which are almost impossible to get on with wet hands. For some reason my legs felt really tired today so we ended up going slower and slower.
We found a pizzeria off route and had the worst pizza I have ever eaten while we chatted to some German and English motorbikers. Somehow the awful pizza did the trick. Not only did I have more energy to get to Vipiteno but it had warmed up and very nearly stopped raining.
Now we are warmly ensconced in a comfy hotel room surrounded by dripping clothes and bags.
Thursday 11th June 2026
Sterzing – Vipiteno, Italy to Innsbruck, Austria over the Brenner Pass
Climb 886 m, Distance 63 km
We had a surprisingly easy cycle up to the Brenner Pass which is at 1463 m. There were some fairly steep bits but on the whole it was a nice easy gradient on well signed and wide cycle tracks. There were quite a few cycle tourists and road bikers heading up and lots of big groups coming down who had been driven up in bike buses with bike trailers.
Once over the pass, in Austria, it was all exactly the opposite. Gone were the bike tracks, we were now on the very steep busy main road. I felt so sorry for the cyclists coming the other way cycling or pushing up with all the cars. The route was also really badly signed. When we did eventually turn off onto cycle tracks and small roads the signs were usually artfully hidden, so like others, we missed a lot of turnings and had to backtrack. The “down” to Innsbruck also featured a lot of very steep, sudden climbs. At one point the sign sent us up a steep, gravel single track, right next to a big drop onto the railway tracks with no barrier. It then widened a little and plunged down then up at about 25%. I was so surprised I somehow made it to the top. That led to a brand new well surfaced bike track that they are still making. We had been taken up the hills opposite to the motorway, so we often dropped down to a village then climbed back up. This gave us wonderful views of the now snow topped mountains.
Eventually we dropped down steeply into Innsbruck, with the final hurdle of a double flight of steps with a bike slide down them. We arrived at the bottom and found all route signs had now disappeared completely and our eSIMs hadn’t logged on to the Austria network yet. In the end we headed for the city centre, found a cafe and ate an ice cream, the solution to everything thing (and we could use their WiFi).
As Innsbruck is so flat, between the mountains, there are lots a fast and furious city cyclists which we found a little intimidating when we got surrounded at traffic lights. They all roared off when the lights changed leaving us feeling a little inadequate. We did find our hotel in the end where we are staying two nights so Bernie can change my brake cable and check out the bikes and explore Innsbruck.
Friday, 12th June 2026
Innsbruck day off
Had a lazy morning, then went shopping for a break cable and cycle shorts. Surprisingly we found both in the first two shops we visited. The weather was cold and drizzling so wandered around the old area of town then walked up to the University Botanical Garden which was a disappointment. Bit of a nothingy day. Bernie reminded me we were meant to be relaxing. Something I find hard to do in a city.
Saturday 13th June 2026
Innsbruck, Austria over pass to Oberau, Germany
Climb 904 m , Distance 70.8 km
We got off to a good start today with sun instead of yesterday’s drizzle. We were immediately on a cycle track from the hotel that took us 10 km along the river, without seeing a car, right out of Innsbruck.
Then we had the climb up to the pass. We had decided, like previous passes we have done, to go up the main road as the gradient tends to be easier. Thus, unfortunately, was the exception. It was about 10 km to the top and it started climbing at about 16 % and when it got to 20 % we started to push. Unlike other mornings this road was really busy and was fairly narrow with no shoulder. The passing cars and motorbikes shouted their feelings about us being there and it was all very unpleasant. After about 5 km we spotted a track and managed to get across to it.
After a fairly intense discussion about the wisdom of heading along a very rough looking track into the forest with a sign that said danger, and a lot more we couldn’t translate, we set off along it. It turned out to be great. It must have been the old road at one time with a sensible gradient, switchbacks and a gravel surface in good condition. There were odd bits we had to push, but we could stop and have a snack when we wanted and it was very pretty and peaceful. We saw a mother deer with two fawns. In the end we had 904 m of climb.
From the top we were on cycle paths of one sort of another for the rest of the day, which was great. While we had been climbing the temperature had risen to 34 C but luckily we were generally in the shade. I only knew we had arrived in Germany when my map went blank and I had to load a new country.
We passed through some very touristy villages with all the houses painted in murals and covered in flowering window boxes, with very expensive cafes and restaurants.
Being a Saturday the trails were really busy with ebikers and a few cycle tourists. Once out of the forest we were cycling through flowering meadows with incredible views of the mountains in front and behind us.
It was a great but long day. We are staying in the only hotel in Oberau, where the kitchen isn’t working for some unexplained reason. So we walked down the road to a nice little pub who served up some delicious white asparagus, yum.
Since leaving Tirana in Albania on 6th May we have cycled 1892 km and climbed 34104 m. It has been an amazing trip so far, with each country we have visited being so different to the last. My next blog will cover cycling though Germany and Switzerland. If you have any comments or questions please get in touch.