Europe

Cycling across Kosovo on the Trans Dinarica route

We have been cycling the wonderful Trans Dinarica route through the Western Balkans having started in Tirana, Albania 24 days, 15,925 m of climbing and 1057 km ago.  (See previous blogs).  The route has taken us on and off-road through beautiful mountainous and very rural areas of Albania and North Macedonia.  This blog starts as we cross in to Kosovo and goes through Montenegro for a day then on to Serbia. We were unable to cross directly from Kosovo to Serbia because of the current political situation.

Below is a map of our route across this section. If you are looking at this on the email you will not be able to see the map, so click “read on blog” at the top right of the email, this will also give you all the last minute corrections I made after posting!!

From Brezovica to Prizren

A scenic view of a picturesque road leading through lush greenery, with majestic mountains in the background, partially covered in snow under a clear blue sky.
Setting off into Kosovo, with the Sharr mountains ahead

Our first full day in Kosovo was great.  We set off for an easy climb up to 1509 m through lovely, shady, beech woodland and next to the bubbling Lumbardhi river.   This kept the temperature down to a nice 21 C all the way up.  We had occasional glimpses of the snow capped Sharr Mountains as we climbed.  The top was a bit different, full on tourist land with cafes and lots of market stands selling 1 kg jars of local honey. 

A roadside market stall in Kosovo featuring various jars of local honey and beverages, with shaded canopies and surrounding green trees.
Selling 1 kg jars of honey at the top
A scenic view of lush green hills and mountains, with snow-capped peaks in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
Wonderful view of the Sharr Mountains from the top
A panoramic view of the lush, green mountains and valleys of the Western Balkans under a clear blue sky.
Looking down to Prizren, where we are headed

Heading down was in full sun but lovely as our speed created a cooling wind.  Near the bottom we turned off to visit the Monastery of Holy Archangels.  It is a sacred place for Serbians and protected with a Police presence as there has been violance in the past.  We had to show our passports before going in.  It is a massive ruin now having been founded in the 14th century.   It has been destroyed, burned and looted many times over the centuries, and the Sinan Pasha Mosque in Prizren was built out of its stones.  Even the reconstruction has been destroyed in the more recent conflicts.  After looking around we sat at a table on their terrace and were offered, as guests, complimentary tea, coffee or raki.  Also on the table were delicious Turkish delight, which I could not resist.  As it was lunchtime they also brought out Balkan filo and cheese pie and meatballs.  All this time a visiting volunteer from Serbia was chatting to us and the Serbian family who were sitting with us, telling us about the history both distant and recent.

A view of a rocky hill topped with the remains of an old fort or tower, surrounded by lush green vegetation and a clear river flowing at its base. A rustic building with a red tiled roof is seen on the right.
The original Monastery of the Holy Archangels had building from the bottom up to the ruin at the top
Three people enjoying a meal outdoors under a canopy of grapevines, surrounded by colorful flowers and rustic wooden furniture.
Learning the history of the site over lunch with a monastery volunteer

Back on the road the traffic had built up unpleasantly with dangerous overtaking on the hairpins.  Luckily we had planned to turn off onto a gravel track.  This took us steeply, at first, up the hill into woods and then across to the Kalaja Fortress high above Prizren.   This site was originally bronze age, then after many reincarnations it was Ottoman in 1450.  What is here now was mainly reconstructed in 18th century.

A scenic view of a winding road through a mountainous landscape, flanked by steep rock formations and lush greenery, with cars driving along the road.
Heading through the narrow gorge with busy traffic
A cyclist paused on a gravel trail surrounded by lush green foliage during a summer ride.
Back on quiet lanes
A view of the mountainous landscape in Kosovo, featuring a stone structure with arches in the foreground, surrounded by green hills and snow-capped peaks under a partly cloudy sky.
The old Kalaja Fortress above Prizren. Originally build in the Bronze Age, what is visible today was mostly reconstructed in the 18th century.
A narrow cobblestone street in a town, featuring various buildings with a mix of modern and traditional architecture, including parked cars and a person walking.
Dropping steeply down cobbled street into Prizren

From there we dropped, and I mean dropped incredibly steeply down some narrow cobbled streets,  barely able to stop, down into Prizren.   We suddenly came out into Shatervan Square full of loud busker music, 100’s of cafes, 1000’s of tourists and the old stone bridge.   This, in fact, is not so old as it was washed away in 1979 and rebuilt.  But the original was built in 16th Century.

A historic stone bridge in Prizren, Kosovo, crossing a small river with green hills and residential buildings in the background. The scene is lively with tourists walking on the bridge and along the riverbank.
The rebuilt Old Bridge in Prizren. You can see the Kalaja Fortress in the background up on the hill and the Sinan Pasha Mosque built in 1615, using some of the stones from the Monastery of the Holy Archangels

Prizren to Djakobe

Night view of a city in Kosovo, showcasing illuminated buildings, a mosque with a minaret, and a hilly backdrop under a moonlit sky.
Looking over Prizren from our room

It was really hot when we set off the next day,  33 C in the shade so much, much hotter in the sun on the tarmac, about mid 40 C something.  Thankfully we had a short day and got into our hotel, already melting, at 12.15

A rural landscape with freshly cut hay rows stretching across a field, framed by a clear blue sky and distant mountains.
Hayfields in this flat region between the Sharr Mountains and the Dinaric Alps, are cut mechanically and not by hand as they are in the mountains
A cyclist riding on a stone pathway surrounded by greenery, with mountains visible in the background under a clear blue sky.
Crossing an old stone, very wavey bridge that had been restored by the European Union

The first half of the morning was interesting looking at the different agriculture here at 300 m compared with what we have seen up to now in the mountains.  Most of what we have seen has been strip farming where the fields of grain, hay, onions or tobacco were small enough to be tilled and harvested by hand or basic mechanical assistance, and the fields have been full of wild flowers.  Yesterday, at altitude, there was a lot of soft fruit, such as raspberries, and large apiaries, for extensive honey harvest for all the baklava they eat!  But down here, on the fertile plain between the Sharr Mountains and the Dinaric Alps the fields are bigger.  Not big by English or American standards,  but big enough to be using larger tractors to plant and harvest and also to spray with chemicals, which is probably why there are very few wild flowers in this area. 

A sunlit street in Prizren, Kosovo, lined with outdoor cafes and traditional wooden buildings, featuring empty tables and a colorful awning, creating a vibrant atmosphere.
A market and cafe area in Djakobe, Kosovo but with all Albanian flags flying
Interior view of a mosque featuring intricate wall decorations, calligraphy, and a vibrant red carpet.
Inside the restored Hadumi Mosque, Djakobe, which was repaired in 1844-45
Exterior view of a mosque with a tall minaret, surrounded by a garden and blue sky.
The Hadumi Mosque and library in Djakobe

Gjakobe to Peje

Thankfully the next day was cooler.   It started sunny but a brisk breeze kept us cool and by 10 it had clouded over and was getting misty.  So it stayed about 27 C which was great.

Cyclists riding on a dirt path surrounded by lush greenery.
An unexpected bit of gravel track where we met this horse and cart
A scenic view of golden wheat fields in the foreground, with lush green trees and rolling mountains in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
Large fields of grain. Unlike other flower filled fields in the region this was large enough to be mechanically sprayed with weedkiller, so no flowers

It was flattish to start then a slow climb up to Pejë.  Generally all the town and villages we have been through in Kosovo have just been full of houses built in the last 30 years, or currently being built as the older houses were destroyed during the war.  But today we started seeing some unusual looking very old buildings which are called Kulla.  These are 18th century to 20th century fortified residential houses of two or three floors.   The ground floor served as a barn, the first floor for the family and the top floor was the men’s quarters.  I had taken pictures of several of these as we went through the villages so was very surprised when I found out that we were staying in the oldest Kulla in Pejë.   It had been completely destroyed in the 1980s during the war, so it was a restored building, but interesting all the same.

A historic fortified house with stone walls and arched windows, featuring a tiled roof and a small parked car nearby.
These Kulla or defensive towers were built on the Dukagjini Plain in the late 19th century as defensive houses.
Photograph of the Kulla e Zenel Beut, a historical structure with visible damage and multiple windows, framed and displayed against a stone wall.
We stayed in this, now restored, kulla in Peje. It was destroyed by the Serbs during the war

And talking about fortified houses, I have noticed that most of the newer village houses in this area have been built surrounded by a wall at least 10 foot high and with metal gates of similar height.  The community here must be feeling insecure and this may be linked to all the Albanian flags that are flying in this part of Kosovo.

A cyclist in a red long-sleeve shirt and helmet stands beside a bike on a rural road, with a few buildings and mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
Most of the new houses in this area were surrounded by high walls and gates for security

Pejë itself, which also didn’t fare well in the war, is a pretty place right under the spectacular Accursed Mountains.   We wandered around the town visiting the old (rebuilt) bazaar.  It sounds interesting but apart from amazing gold stores is mainly full of tat like most markets these days. 

A bustling market street in Prizren, Kosovo, featuring shops with clothing and goods, surrounded by traditional architecture and mountains in the background.
The restored old bazaar with the backdrop of the Accursed Mountains
A meal featuring a baked dish in a clay pot, a plate with rolled dessert drizzled with chocolate, garnished with fruit and vegetables, and a glass of sparkling water on a red tablecloth.
A typical Kosovan meal

Into Montenegro: From Peje to Rozaje

Our first day in Montenegro we went up, a lot, and then came down, not so much.  It was very hot and there wasn’t much shade on the way up.  That about sums up the day really. 

A scenic view of a winding road surrounded by lush greenery, with a prominent mountain peak in the background under a clear blue sky.
About to start our climb into the Dinaric Alps

While we were still in Kosovo we had heard some big explosions on the way up to the border.  At about 1400 m we came across lots of Halo Mine Clearance trucks.  We chatted to their medic who said they had found two this morning and detonated them, which is what we heard.  Halo is based in Scotland but mainly funded by the USA, and have teams all over the world.

Two off-road vehicles parked in a grassy area surrounded by trees, with a construction site visible in the background.
The Halo Mine Clearance team detonated two cluster bombs while we were riding up the mountain.

Some way from the top we left Kosovo and made sure they stamped us out on our passports, so hopefully we won’t have any issues getting into Serbia.   About 10 km later and nearly at the top we finally entered Montenegro. The passport man tried to be a little fierce but couldn’t think what to ask us.  It didn’t help that we couldn’t pronounce the name of the town we were staying in that night.

A stone fountain dedicated to Ramadan Fazlis, featuring a plaque with an inscription, surrounded by green foliage and mountains in the background.
We passed many constantly running springs like this one that offer much needed water and shade to travellers
A panoramic view of lush green hills and distant mountains under a clear blue sky in the Western Balkans.
About halfway up our climb. We can see another road snaking its way up the next hill across.

Finally at the top it was 2.30, having left the bottom at 8.30 and climbed from 1385 m to1795 m.    So we stopped and ate everything in our food bag.  I was glad I was carrying several other drinks apart from water.

A picturesque view of a rural landscape featuring a few houses with red roofs, surrounded by lush greenery and rolling hills in the background, under a clear blue sky.
Across the border into Montenegro and heading down. This side is much less jagged and more pastoral

We shot down the hill and just before Rožaje we turned down a rough track hoping to find the Jala Natural Resort where we had booked a log cabin.  We didn’t have any Internet; as we are only in Montenegro for one day it didn’t seem worth it.  But it meant we cycled around in circles for a while until we found it up an incredibly steep hill, of course.   We were fed up with towns so thought we would stay in the countryside for a change.

A scenic view of a wooden lodge nestled among tall green trees, with a clear blue sky above. The foreground includes a parking area with a car, bicycles, and a sign promoting local events.
Our rural accommodation in an Eco Lodge. Not sure what makes it Eco. Possibly the fact that they cut down part of the forest to build it, or maybe it gives an excuse for nothing actually working. We were told the fact that you end up on the floor when trying to sit on the toilet is because the plumbers were drunk when they installed them all!

Montenegro to Serbia: Rozaje to Tutin

A panoramic view of rolling hills and mountains under a clear blue sky, showcasing a blend of forests, fields, and rural buildings in the foreground.
Looking down on Rozaje, surrounded by mountains

It was a lovely ride, perfect weather, sunny but not too hot as we were still high up, and beautiful rolling hills of flower filled meadows and rural dwellings mixed with forest.  Overall we climbed 585 m  but it was all gentle.  It was different countryside too, more “Hills are Alive” than the rugged mountains of yesterday.  You almost expected Julie Andrews to appear and start singing.

Close-up of pink flowering plants in a grassy field, with various soft-focus wildflowers in the background.
A cyclist takes a break near a winding road surrounded by lush greenery and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.
We had to stop to admire the scenery
Close-up view of vibrant pink flowers with green foliage in the background.
So many wild flowers everywhere. This one is a Dianthus

At one point we stopped to photograph a small herd of cows happily munching grass with their bells ringing, when the unnoticed bull in the group started noisily getting a bit possessive.   At that point we realized that the only thing between them and us was a light piece of string.  So we started pedalling!

A scenic landscape featuring a pasture with cows grazing, surrounded by lush greenery and rolling hills, with distant mountains under a blue sky.
This looked like a lovely peaceful scene until the bull appeared on the other side of the thin piece of string.
A scenic landscape featuring a lush green meadow covered in yellow wildflowers, with a winding road visible at the bottom. In the foreground, there are flowering trees, and the background includes trees and a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.
A hawthorn in front of a lovely flowering meadow full of Helianthunum (rock rose) and buttercups

We passed through the Montenegro Customs very easily and set off for the 5 km downhill ride to the Serbian border.  We were expecting a nice gravel ride but those pesky civil engineers have been at it and are just putting the finishing touches to a wide, smooth tarmac.  It was nearly as easy to get though the Serbian border, only we couldn’t find anyone.  We shouted and knocked on the cabin window but nothing.  It was only when Bernie went through the barrier and knocked on the cabin on the other side that the bleary eyed customs office appeared,  all smiles.  Then we were through in no time.

Scenic landscape featuring rolling green hills, a field of freshly tilled soil, coniferous trees, and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.
Rolling pastoral views

One of the things I have been wondering about ever since starting this ride is the number of new houses being built everywhere.   Especially as many of the younger people have left the Balkan countries, leaving reducing populations.   Apparently most of the housing and commercial building is being funded by the EU and the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD) and other international institutions.   1.2 billion euros in fact!

A scenic view of a lush green valley surrounded by rolling hills and mountains under a clear blue sky.
The views are fantastic if you only look up. What you see when you look down is in the next picture
A pile of plastic waste and debris scattered among overgrown vegetation in a rural area
This is taken standing in the same place as the previous picture. This fly tipping has been really bad since we arrived in Albania and through Macedonia and Kosovo. This rubbish was sorted into types of plastic before it was just dumped over the edge.

Arriving in Tutin at midday,  just as it was getting hot, we were walking around the central square looking for lunch when a waiter appeared from a nearby bar and said one of their clients wanted to buy us a drink as a welcome.  That was very kind and the freshly squeezed  lemon and soda in the shade was just what we needed.

A cyclist with a fully loaded bicycle smiles while standing on a rural road surrounded by green hills and scattered houses in a mountainous landscape.
My usual excuse is that I am just stopping to admire the flowers! Certainly nothing is flat around here.

I will write about our time cycling through Serbia and Bosnia in the next blog.

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