Our route through Albania starting in Tirana, heading north to Valbona, then south to where we crossed into North Macedonia at Lake Ohrid. Over 13 days, we covered 588 kms and climbed 8474 m.
Cycling from Tirana to Laç on the first day
We arrived in Tirana, the capital of Albania, with our bikes, having had an easy journey from Luton. Little did we realise, as we struggled outside to put our bikes together and set off in the dark and in the pouring rain, that most of Europe’s politicians were also arriving in the small airport, and were about to cause chaos as the city centre roads were closed so they could drive in luxury with no traffic. We were staying in a small city centre hotel along with most of the journalists following the political circus. We had booked a city centre walking tour but of course the whole centre was barricaded off and lined by police and security. This was a big deal for Albania as they are hoping for membership of the EU. We met up with our walking tour guide, a student with amazing knowledge of Balkan history and a hilariously disrespectful view of politicians.
Having stuffed ourselves on delicious traditional Albanian food and been drenched by unseasonal downpours we set off on our bikes on an almost sunny day heading north towards Laç where we had booked an Agroturism hotel. Getting out of Tirana was easier than expected as the Trans Dinarica route we are following put us immediately on a separated cycle lane that took us to the outskirts of the city, where we immediately got lost. This was mainly due to the building boom that was going on. Our route was meant to cross a new motorway but the bridge hadn’t been built yet. Some guys playing pool in the remains of a building pointed us in the direction of an underpass, and after a bit of bush wacking we were on our way.
Although surrounded by high hills our first day was fairly flat and easy, apart from one very long steep hill up to a castle ruin and wonderful views. It was a highly scented climb up past masses of summer flowering jasmine and mountainous rambling white roses. We were also going past red flowering pomegranate trees, walnuts, cob nuts, fig trees and many others. After leaving the castle we plunged back down on loose stone and mud tracks then continued on our flat way again. The family run Agroturism was an absolute delight and we both ate much too much of the local farm food.
Cycling on from Laç to Shkodër
Just after we set off we came across a traffic jam that was caused by a Sunday market. All the local farmers were there. On one side of the road was livestock such as sheep, cattle and horses and on the other side chicken, geese, young plants such as beans and fruit and veg. The young chicken sales were booming with people leaving with boxes of them. There was a strange sight at the entrance of a large plastic bag tied up at the top with the long neck and head of a goose sticking out. It seemed quite happy and was watching what was going on.
It was a gently undulating day with lovely views of the steep wooded hills. Initially we went through some villages and a big town where we should have stopped for lunch. By the time we thought of eating we had climbed into the hills and there was nothing about. Eventually we stopped at a bar in a small village for some juice and a bar of crisps, as the bars here don’t serve food.
Heading into the hills from Shkodër to Koman
This was a hard day and I felt that we had really arrived in Albania. There had been an almighty thunderstorm overnight that had all the town dogs barking. The rain had finally stopped as we set off but we were in full waterproofs as it was forecast to come back.
Bernie had told me he thought it would be an easy ride as it was next to the lake formed by the dam. Well, we could see the lake way below us, and we frequently went down to it before climbing up again. We had stunning views initially before the heavy rain started, then we had lovely views of the mist rising over the hills during the gaps in the rain.
The road got worse as we went on. For the last 20 kilometres there must have been major mud slides or avalanches of rock, sometimes mangling the metal guard rails. There were lots of bulldozers and diggers, and plenty of men shovelling mud off the road. They had done an amazing job but it made the going hard.
Eventually we arrived at Koman village where we were staying along with groups of other travellers who are catching the early ferry which will take us about 30 km along the dammed river as there are no roads.
We were drenched and cold, but a hot shower and sitting in front of the fire made us feel human again after climbing 750 m.
From Koman by ferry then up the mountain to the Valbone Ski Resort
It’s amazing how sunshine can transform a place. We were up early as we had to cycle over a hill to catch the 9.00 am ferry along the Komani Reservoir for 32 km before starting a big climb up to the Valbone Natural Park in the mountains.
Unloading the ferry at the far end was quicker and we were soon on our way, steadily climbing from the off. We stopped for lunch in Bajram Curri, which was delicious, but I ate too many meatballs. By now it was nearly 2.30 pm and really hot, about 31C in the full sun.
Over the whole day we climbed 1400 m, with the last few kilometres being the steepest. About 10 km from the top we seriously overheated and had to sit in a shady wood for half an hour to cool down.
The scenery on the way up was amazing and we could see snow covered peaks high above us. We seem to have booked into what looks like an alpine ski challet, and of course were given the room on the top floor, three endless flights of stairs up. To say I was tired was an understatement.
A day off, walking above Valbone in the mountains
It had rained overnight but amazingly it had stopped by the time we set off for our walk. The hotel owner had showed us a route that wasn’t too onerous up an old forestry track behind the hotel. It was a bit of a scramble some of the time where the track had been washed away, but also wonderful as it went steeply up through beech or hornbeam woodland. There was the constant smell of thyme from under our feet, and lots of small alpine flowers. After climbing up about 350 m we got to an alpine meadow that was full of orchids and other flowers and with stunning views down the valley to our hotel and across at the snowy peaks opposite.
Back down the mountain from Valbone and over the hills to Helshan
There was only one road in and out of Valbone and it was certainly a lot easier going back down than it was coming up, even in full waterproofs as it was still raining.
Once down the scenery was very different as we headed towards Helshan. We were going over a section of very big hills rather than mountains and the road had been graded so the climbing was long and gradual with an equal number of downs. There were also almost no cars all day. I was in seventh heaven as it was like cycling through a giant rock garden full of amazing alpine plants, all in full flower. Bernie was very patient as we stopped to photograph the next amazing find every few minutes. The views were great too.
Gone now were the waterproofs and the temperature varied between 25C and 35C depending if the sun appeared between the clouds, so it was a pleasant cycle.
We were surprised to find a bar in a tiny, very rural village were we could get a Coke and eat our sandwiches. I always find the bars here a little intimidating as there are never any women and the teenagers sitting on the wall outside were making ribald comments in English to us. I went into the bar while Bernie locked the bikes and the guy nearest the bar nearly dropped his beer in shock, presumably at seeing a woman.
Eventually we found the campsite sign and turned up the steep drive. Not only could we camp and get a home cooked meal of fresh farm produce, but he had very nearly finished building some guest rooms, so we opted to stay there. We have a stunning view over the hills from our balcony, and we sat there listening to the cattle bells and cuckoos in the distance and the birds singing, so all in all it was a pleasant end to our day
Rolling down to Kukës
Last night I was delighted to hear a cuckoo. At 4 am this morning I was less than delighted to be kept awake by a competition between the cockerel and the cuckoo as to who could make the most continuous annoying noise. It was a draw!
Despite saying we would eat our supplies for breakfast the farmers knocked on our door with hard boiled free range eggs and glasses of milk, I think either sheep or goats milk as it tasted unusual, but nice. His wife also insisted we take a bottle of her cheese with us when we left. Luckily she hadn’t started baking yet or we would have had to carry much more.
The farmer was 56 years old, but looked about 70. He was almost starving and penniless living here so he had moved to Tirana were he worked as an architect. When his parents died and left him the 5 hectare farm he moved back, having had at least one heart attack. He has built the farm up in the last three years and now has goats, sheep, cows, about 100 chickens and bees. He has almost finished building a really nice three bedroomed holiday let with a coffee bar and restaurant below. His wife is an excellent cook and they and their children work really hard on the farm.
We had a pleasant rolling cycle through the hills, sweeping round the hairpin bends on the way down. It was really pretty with great views and lots of flowers, all just slightly marred by the roaring headwind. We passed through several villages and small towns stopping for coffee and a Nutella filled croissant.
The old Kukës was completely submerged when the Fierzë reservoir on the Drin River was constructed in the early 1970s, forcing communist planners to build the town from scratch. The fact that they actually built two cities at the same time – one on a hill and the other beneath it – was a state secret back then. In case of war, the underground system was designed to house up to 10.000 people, practically the entire population of Kukës. A part of the tunnels can now be visited. But I think we might give that a miss.
A very cold and wet cycle from Kukes up to Oda Tradicional in Vasije
I was totally exhausted and amazed that we managed this climb to Vasije without having to push. It was cold and wet from the off, so we were in full waterproofs. We climbed 1345 m in 36 km.
We had two big hills to get up. The first one was fine and steady and went up to 800m. It was very rural and we were passing farms and isolated shepherds in the hills with their sheep or goats and big dogs. I am sure the views would have been amazing but most of the time we were cycling inside a low, wet cloud and could barely see where we were going.
But very occasionally the fog cleared a little so we could see down and across the valley. Well, I could, Bernie took his vertigo to the middle of the road. Once we had reached 800 m the road undulated steeply for a bit before plunging down to the hydro-electric plant deep in the valley.
Then our challenge really started. The first kilometer up was at 15%, which we managed in bottom gear. Luckily we have mountain bike gearing. We were only going 4km/hr but it was easier than pushing. For the next 7 km we crawled up the hill which varied between 7% and 15%. We passed the odd small village but the gradient never let up until we finally reached 1152m and our destination.
The Oda Tradicionale in Vasije is a truly incredible place. The original building is a bar beside the road. But up the steep hill opposite, and only accessible up six flights of slippery stone steps are wooden lodges, a dining room and a carpeted room with cushions covered in sheep skins and a roaring wood burner. The young men kindly carried our bags up to our room. I was so cold and tired I could barely make it. We quickly got into dry clothes and spent some time lying on the sheep skins in front of the fire.
Then miraculously delicious lunch appeared. I was so hungry and the open fire cooked lamb chops, cream cheese with chilli, feta cheese, homemade bread, and salad just hit the spot.
Finally a little warmer, from Vasije to Peshkopi
Thankfully it had finally stopped raining in the morning and the views were back. But as we were at 1152 m and there was a strong wind blowing it was still really cold, about 5 C. Most of our wet clothes are still wet as it was so cold and damp.
We went down to the old bar and restaurant for breakfast which we ate surrounded by the usual thick fug of cigarette smoke from all the men chain smoking over their coffees. It is strange. I haven’t seen a woman for two days, not even in passing. But there are lots of men and boys everywhere. Mainly sitting in the bars all day drinking coffee and chain smoking, or driving around. Since leaving Tirana I have never seen a woman driving and only once or twice as a passenger in a car.
Although the route profile today looked downhill, there was still about 600 m of climbing in the usual undulating way. The views were lovely and our legs were tired.
This is the first woman I have seen in days. I suppose they are all hard at work and not sitting around in bars like their menfolk.
Arriving in Peshkopi at lunchtime, I couldn’t face any more cheese or yoghurt, so we headed into the centre for a kebab and onto a bakery for pudding and coffee
Two big climbs for our last day in Albania from Peshkopi to Librazhd
We had expected it to be a really hard cycle today and that we would be camping somewhere between the two big climbs as the only guesthouse had closed down. According to the notes that we got with our route maps from Trans Dinarica the first climb was 20 km of rough gravel, mud and stone and had an average gradient of 10% and went up to 1179 m. This meant that we would probably be pushing up quite a bit of it.
As it turned out, we got to the start of the climb in record time on a big new road with almost no traffic. We stopped at a cafe at the bottom for some fortification and then found that they had fully surfaced the small road we were taking in the last week. In fact, we found them just finishing the top when we got there. So it became an easy climb, with no traffic and wonderful views.
We started in farmland and climbed up through young oak forests, then mixed deciduous woodland until we came out onto the high pasture where shepherds bring their sheep, goats and cows for the summer. This would have been perfect for camping, but we made such good time it was still only midmorning.
We plunged down the far side and found a fantastic restaurant and trout farm, where we had been expecting a rough and ready mountain cafe. So after a filling meal of trout in walnut sauce, baked vegetables and a delicious cake and sherbet dessert, on the house, we persuaded our full stomachs to start the second big climb of the day.
Again, fantastic views on the lovely sunny day. This time, when we reached the top, a headwind was building up strongly, and we were buffeted about on the way down.
Tomorrow, we will be leaving Albania and heading into North Macedonia. We have both really loved Albania, and I don’t think we have ever eaten so well on a cycle tour.